In the ABC'S of skincare, Sunscreen may be last, but it is certainly not least. I would argue it is the most important thing you can do for your skin. Any age, any skin type, any time of year your skin will be protected from harmful, damaging, cancer causing UV rays. The cumulative effect of the sun's UVA and UVB rays can cause up to 90% of wrinkles associated with aging. I really wish my mom had told me that when I was younger - or maybe she did, but I didn't listen to her. I looked so much better with a tan than all pale and pasty.
Since my know it all days of youth, I've spent many years researching, visiting dermatologists and buying products to combat sun damage. I want to share what I've learned with you and give you a head start on protecting your skin from the UV radiation lurking all around you. The sun emits UVA, UVB and UVC rays. You only have to worry about the first two because UVC rays don't pass through the earth's atmosphere. UVA rays cause skin to age, while UVB rays cause skin to burn. Both increase your risk of skin cancer. The good news is a broad spectrum sunscreen with at least an SPF of 30 will protect you from both types of ultraviolet light. Relief!
Signs of sun damage
Be prepared because this is a long list:
Wrinkles - caused by the damage sun does to collagen and elastin fibers
"Broken" blood vessels - enlarged blood vessels occur when elastin fibers are weakened by sun exposure preventing them from holding blood vessels taut
Brown spots - AKA freckles - these develop over time spent in the sun
Hyperpigmentation - UV radiation causes blotchy skin, with varying dark and light patches and red discoloration as well
Melasma - this is the one that is near and dear to me because I've been battling it for over eight years. It's primarily caused by skin inflammation induced by repeated sun exposure.
Skin cancer - one of the most common types of cancer with UV exposure being a major risk factor for its development
Applying sunscreen correctly
Sunscreen with a 30+ SPF should be applied about 15 minutes before you head outdoors. I use a tinted, mineral based sunscreen on my face, neck and décolleté every day. That's important too - you need to use sunscreen even if there are no visible rays present because the UV radiation is still there. Dermatologists recommend using a half teaspoon to cover those areas. In the mornings I use a gentle face wash, put on my serums and moisturize. When my face feels dry to the touch, I apply my sunscreen. I choose a tinted one because the iron oxides help protect my skin against indoor blue lights. And I like mineral, or physical, sunscreens because they are gentler on my sensitive skin. My husband used to use chemical sunscreen on his face, but switched to a physical one because it kept stinging his eyes when he would sweat.
"There is a gap in awareness about what causes the so-called "signs of aging" on our skin," says Deborah S. Sarnoff, MD, president of The Skin Cancer Foundation. "My patients are often surprised to hear that most of these signs are related to sun damage."
Reversing sun damage
Even if you have previously exposed yourself to the sun's harmful UVA and UVB rays, you can begin to heal some of the damage done to your skin. There are many amazing skin care ingredients that help reverse the signs of aging caused by the UV light. In the morning I recommend using a Vitamin C serum which boosts the power of your sunscreen and helps to diminish fine lines and dark spots. It will also stimulate new collagen production, leading to healthier skin.
At night, Vitamin A (retinol) is the gold standard for repairing sun damage. It is proven to increase the rate of cell turnover, leading to more collagen and elastin being created. My skin is sensitive so I can't use retinol every night, but I use it at least 4-5 times a week - on my neck and décolleté too! You won't notice the discolorations fading right away, but over the coarse of several months there will be positive changes in your skin.
One treatment that has helped me with my melasma isn't a skin care product, but an oral medication called tranexamic acid. I love this product for lightening dark spots on my face. It also helps rosacea, or redness, too. It is a prescription that I get from my doctor and I take 650mg daily. You can also find it on Musely. They have dermatologists that you see online and then send you the medication in the mail.
Tips and tricks I've learned
If you're out in the sun, or get wet, you should reapply your sunscreen every two hours. I like to use a mineral powder sunscreen to reapply during the day if it's been a few hours since I put my sunscreen on and I go outside to run errands. Feel free to mix different tinted sunscreens to create a color that suits your skin tone - maybe you add a little untinted sunscreen to lighten the color or combine two to make the tint darker.
I love hats now. They are a wonderful way to keep the sun off your face, especially during those peak hours. I even wear one anytime I go outside for a walk or to hang by the pool. You can wear protective clothing when you are heading into the sun and don't forget your sunglasses and lip balm. Eyes and lips are susceptible to sun damage also.
Here are some of my favorite sunscreens:
La Roche-Posay Anthelios SPF 50 tinted mineral sunscreen. They make a non-tinted one too (face, normal/dry skin)
Suntegrity SPF 30 5-in-1 tinted mineral sunscreen & moisturizer (face, dry skin)
Dr Dennis Gross SPF 30 all physical wrinkle defense mineral sunscreen (non-tinted, face, all skin types)
SkinMD SPF 40 daily tinted antioxidant mineral sunscreen (face, oily/normal skin)
Versed SPF 30 total package replenishing body lotion (body)
EltaMD makes amazing sunscreens, both mineral and chemical versions for the face and body
Final thoughts...
I often say if I had to choose between sunscreen and chocolate I would have to develop a new love of caramel, butterscotch or some other sweet not nearly as delicious. Sun protection is the number one thing I talk about with all my clients. I try to not guilt them into using it, but simply inform them of the benefits of sunscreen - preventing sunburns, skin cancer and premature aging to name a few. Now it's your turn to find the perfect sun protection for you. Trust me (and your mom), it's worth it!