If you want to keep your skin healthy, reduce discoloration and minimize wrinkles, retinol is the SECOND most important skincare product in your arsenal. The first is of course - SUNSCREEN. You can never top sunscreen when it comes to anti-aging skincare products, but retinoids/retinol (Vitamin A), is a close second.
Remember the ABC'S of skincare. The first is Vitamin A (retinol), then comes Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), after is Vitamin C and lastly the product that tops them all (literally and figuratively), Sunscreen. Today it's all about Vitamin A - why to use it, how to use it and what to expect when you use it.
Retinol reduces fine lines and wrinkles
It's 100% true! I've seen it in action on my husband's skin. He's never had Botox and his forehead wrinkles are much better when he recently turned 50 than when he was 40 and started his retinol journey. Retinoids coach the skin on how to act younger, improving cell turnover and helping the skin hold on to the essential substances it needs to look and feel healthy. It works but can be a slow and challenging process, so be prepared for the up's and down's.
Start slow and build
I recommend starting with a gentle retinol and using it a FEW NIGHTS a week. Some good ones to try are - Versed Press Restart Gentle Retinol Serum, Kiehl's Microdose Anti-Aging Retinol Serum and CeraVe Skin Renewing Retinol Serum. This is the repair phase for your skin and you might experience redness, dryness and more sensitivity during the first 6 weeks of use. The worst part is you won't notice any results either. It takes up to 3-6 months before the skin appearance improves. You will get there if you keep going. I promise it's worth it in the long run. When your skin becomes acclimated to the gentler retinol, you can always increase the strength or the frequency of use. There are prescription versions of trentinoin, called Retin-A, you can get from a doctor, or online at places like Musely or Apostrophe.
"Think of using retinol as an investment. What you do today will help your skin 30 days from now," says Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank, cosmetic dermatologist.
Retinol improves acne
The original purpose of retinoids was to treat acne. I was prescribed Differin (Adapalene) when I was in high school for my acne. You can buy it OTC now at places like Target. Retinoids work great to clear up breakouts, and the oilier your skin, the higher the strength you can use. My daughter just finished taking the oral form of Vitamin A - Accutane - to treat her stubborn, persistent acne. Her skin is blemish free now and her dermatologist has her on a topical retinoid - tretinoin - to keep any future break outs at bay.
Personalize your treatment
Make retinol work for you. You already know how beneficial it is to your skin - now you have to find out how to incorporate it into your skincare routine. You can try "retinol sandwiching" which means you apply a hydrating product to your skin BEFORE and AFTER retinol. I personally can't use it too close to my eye area because my eyelid skin is super sensitive. I can put it all over the other parts of my face and NECK. Don't forget to treat your neck too! It will age you even if your face is smooth and wrinkle free.
Apply retinol the right way
Retinol should be applied to clean, DRY skin at night. You only need about a pea sized amount for your face and another pea sized amount for your neck/décolleté. Let it soak in for a few minutes before applying other products on top. I use it first thing after I clean my face at night. I really like Obagi Medical Retinol 1.0 Cream. It's packed with tons of skin soothing ingredients, such as jojoba seed oil and black elderberry extract. Then I layer my serums over it, starting with the lightest and progressing to the creamier ones. I finish with a moisturizer and wait a few minutes before I hit the pillow. Also, another quick tip if you get breakouts - change your pillowcase more frequently. It could be a buildup of oil from your skin or hair clogging your pores at night when you press your face into your pillow.
What happens if you can't use retinol...
If you have EXTREMELY sensitive skin (rosacea, eczema), or are PREGNANT, you might not be a candidate for retinol. I thought I couldn't use it for a long time because I have rosacea, but I've persisted with it and am happily applying it to my skin almost every night. There is a botanical option that has been proven to be effective for reducing wrinkles called bakuchiol which comes from the babchi plant. This is a good option for those with highly sensitive skin who are still seeking the benefits of retinol. One to try is Medik8 Bakuchiol Peptide Serum.
See you next time as we progress through the ABC'S of skincare with Vitamin B3, AKA Niacinamide, and uncover all its skin boosting benefits.